Cam Crank Seal Installer
As mentioned, you don't need to remove the cams to change a HG. Nonetheless, you don't need the special tool to install a new one. I used a 36mm impact socket, which fit the seal perfectly, to tap it into place. I put a 1/2' extension on it and tapped the end with a rubber mallet. Make sure to put a thin layer of clean motor oil around the outside and inside of the seal before installing it.
The key is to apply even pressure around the seal so that it goes in evenly and doesn't end up crooked or damaged. If you don't have a large enough socket you can also remove the #1 cam cap (the one at the cam gear end). Then you can very easily slide the seal over the end of the cam and into place. Composite Pressure Vessels Pdf To Word. Some like to put a very thin layer of RTV around the seal when doing it this way but it's not necessary.
Then carefully replace the cam cap so that you don't pinch or damage the outer surface of the seal. Fun Run Cheat Codes No Download. Push or gently tap it down over the alignment pins and into place keeping both ends of the cap as even as possible. Make sure the seal stays in position. Torque the bolts in stages going back and forth between the two to keep the pressure on both sides as even as possible.
Torque exactly to spec.
While putting my 95 back together doing a TBWP service I thought it might be useful to share a my method of seal installation that seems to avoid many of the problems I hear about in the forum. Tools: • Lisle seal puller • 7/8' steel fender washer • square cut pieces of 1-1/2' ABS pipe, 1' and 2' long • crank and cam bolts • *optional ShinEtsu grease I won't cover seal removal much since there is so much on the web, videos, etc that all work. I just use the Lisle seal puller pictured very carefully. Some use a shield fashioned from a plastic bottle to further protect the shaft, which makes sense if you need to get medieval with the puller. But the Lisle tool is not strong and will not pull a really stuck seal. To press the cam seal, butter up the inside and outside of the seal, shaft and seal seat with a thin wipe of silicone grease.
(I use ShinEtsu because once you buy a tube it lasts forever, but any silicon grease or even oil will work.) Gently and evenly place the seal over the cam shaft end. Take the 1' piece of ABS and fender washer and line up using the cam bolt like this ( seal is black in this case): While being sure everything stays concentric, tighten the bolt (no power tools please!) until you feel resistance - the seal will bottom out when the face is flush: The crank works similarly, except you use the 2' piece of ABS and of course, the crank bolt. Tide Tables Download Free. Unlike the cam seal you do not bottom it, just make the front flush with the surrounding metal. Some have reported use of a 1-1/2' ABS coupling instead. The problem with that is twofold. First, the diameter is too large to monitor concentricity.
Harley Davidson Tools. Big Twin Cam Seal Installer Remover Tool. Harley Cam Crank Locking Tool TC88. $59.99 $19.99. Not to long ago True Mechanics Fixed cars. We didn't just replace parts. We would take stuff apart find the problem. Replace as little as possible. Then put it back togther. First time every time. Well this is a short How to on seals. The one I'm going to show you is the Crankshaft Seal on the front of the motor.
Second, the face is not flat leading to possible crooked installs. Note how you can't see the seal easily using this: Be sure the pieces of ABS pipe are cut perfectly square using a carbide blade on a chop saw (miter saw) or equivalent. Some forum members use RTV sealant on the outside of the seal in the case of damage to the seal seat, which seems reasonable. Since the outer surface of the seal is rubber coated metal it seems that minor imperfections would self seal and that is part of the design. Using less then seal exterior dimension tools risks setting the seal deeper than flush.